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With measured strokes, the server scoops a series of liquid ingredients into a line of three ramen bowls. He moves to prepare the noodles, unravelling each mound of delicate dough before dropping them into separate strainers and leaving them to cook. He then pours the broth into the bowls, checks back on the noodles and once convinced of their doneness, gives the strainers a rhythmic shake. In one swift motion, he drops the noodles simultaneously into all three bowls.

He takes a pair of chopsticks to flip the noodles to a presentable heap and, with assured grace, adds in the toppings: green onions, bamboo shoots, seaweed, and ground condiments. The whole process is a dance, performed at a pace that seems to follow a beat only the server could hear.

“It’s showmanship,” says Ray Costa who, along with wife Keith Ann, owns the three-year-old Agara Ramen along North Drive in Baguio City. “Ramen is an art, not just food. It’s a combination of passion and everything else,” he adds. This is why the couple makes sure that in their eight-seater ramen bar, each step in the process of making, assembling, serving the ramen is a thoughtful step.

It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

As the bowl crosses the bar, I start praying the dish will be worth the whole act. I ordered Agara’s flagship item called the Chuka Soba. The artisanal wheat noodles are done just right—by which I mean al dente—the chashu is tender and perfectly torched, and the soup, a combination of pork, chicken, fish and vegetable broths, is hearty and flavorful. As for the Hirata Bun, their version of the Japanese steamed bun with pork filling, I finished it in just a few unruly bites.

Agara offers other varieties more popular among local ramenheads. They have Tonkotsu Shio, Karai Miso and Tantanmen. But the owners chose to specialize in Chuka Soba which, as far as they know, has not been offered by any ramen shop in the Philippines. It’s also Ray’s personal favorite from all the ramen he’s tried during visits to his mother who lives in Japan’s Nagano prefecture. In these trips, Ray would eat ramen as much as three times a week, shunning popular shops for the more intriguing holes-in-the-wall.

With Agara, authenticity is the thing Ray and Keith Ann specifically wished to hone in on from the get go. Ray built on research and his own learnings from his ramen bar forays in Tokyo in order to develop the right recipes—recipes only he and his wife know how to fully put together even up to now. A Japanese adviser helped them set up the menu, which in the tradition of Japanese ramen houses must offer only a few selections of side dishes to compliment the ramen. Hence, diners can also expect gyoza, wagyu cubes, karaage, ebi tempura and the hirata bun at Agara.

The Costas also made sure the place stays true to the typical Japanese ramen bar size, and that the staff are properly trained to greet customers in Nihongo and serve with the same disarming politeness diners are served their meals with in Japan.

Perhaps the only thing not really Japanese in Agara is the name itself, even if it does sound Japanese. Agara is actually borrowed from the Ilocano word “Agraramen,” which has a negative connotation when used as a slang in the North; it becomes “feeling” or pretending to be more than you actually are. But Ray and Keith Anne chose to give it a more positive spin, redefining it to mean “ambitious,” which in a way represents their stance about their venture as well as the venture itself.

Making ramen from scratch is long and tedious. And refusing to compromise on flavor, process, and experience, to be able to present their product in the most authentic fashion would call for a high price that Baguio’s locals may not be willing to spend. So Ray and Keith Ann initially had no choice but to park their business idea, no matter how excited it got them. But when a popular ramen chain got a good reception when it opened in Baguio, they knew the time was ripe.

Their hunch would be proven right in the next three years, as proven by the long queues, the constant vlogger visits, the Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice awards for two consecutive years, the heartwarming feedback from Japanese clients who said their ramen could compete with those they have back home.

In fact, Agara’s success exceeded even the couple’s ambitious expectations. Plans of opening to franchises are already on the pipeline, and on October 28, Agara is opening its second branch at the ground floor of Palace Avenue in Legarda. This space will be bigger, promising to accommodate up to 40 guests at a time and provide more than a hundred vehicles a parking slot.

This clearly means shorter waiting time in the queue —if there will be a queue at all. Which is a good thing, of course, so long as the trade-off wouldn’t be getting less of the intimate ramen bar vibe, less attention to detail, and no more of that dance the servers do when Agara was but a humble ramen bar in a tiny space that comfortably sat eight.

It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

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It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

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It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

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It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

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It’s even more interesting, says Ray, to watch two servers go about the act at the same time, see how they do the routine without bumping onto each other despite the very small space.

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This tiny, 8-seater ramen bar in Baguio will remind you that making ramen is an art

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This tiny, 8-seater ramen bar in Baguio will remind you that making ramen is an art

Cristina Gomez-Verano

Published Oct 28, 2022 06:00 PM PHT

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Updated Oct 28, 2022 11:12 PM PHT

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Agara Ramen

Baguio City

ramen in baguio

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