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Local ingredients shine on a global plate in Chef Robby Goco’s newest culinary spectacle in El Nido

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RHIA GRANA

<p>“My philosophy is, drop me in the middle of nowhere, I should be able to cook a dish that resonates with your taste, one you’d not only understand but genuinely enjoy,” serial restaurateur and chef Robby Goco told the media at the launch of his latest culinary endeavor, Tanaw Restaurant in El Nido, Palawan.</p><p>With an impressive 27 years of culinary expertise under his belt, we knew Goco — the mastermind behind well-established brands such as Cyma, Souv by Cyma, Go Greek!, ROBS! Ribs Oysters Bourbon, Cangrejos Locos, Calle Brewery, and Smokehouse BBQ — wasn’t talking big but simply stating a fact.</p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Tanaw’s al fresco area" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/2tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>Tanaw’s al fresco area</figcaption></figure></div><p>He showed us what he meant by presenting an extensive day-to-night menu throughout our three-day stay in El Nido. Situated at the northernmost tip of mainland Palawan, this remote municipality currently operates with only five daily flight schedules. Moreover, it is still recovering from the economic impacts of the pandemic.</p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="The restaurant offers panoramic views of El Nido" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/3tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>The restaurant offers panoramic views of Vanilla Beach </figcaption></figure></div><p>Tanaw features global flavors using local and sustainably sourced ingredients, something Goco has been known for as a purveyor of farm-to-table cuisine for many years now. In order to save on food costs, he and his team basically let the market dictate the menu. Instead of having to transport ingredients from places like Manila, they decided to use ingredients that are locally available. </p><p>“Here, we apply the principles of nose-to-tail cooking,” he told us. “Instead of buying animal parts piecemeal, we buy it whole, with the thymus and all.” So don’t be surprised to find sweetbreads, beef cheek croquetas, and the crispy pig ears in menu. This approach, he says, also allows him and his team to be more creative in developing their diverse offerings. </p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Chef Robby Goco outside the Pamilihang Bayan ng El Nido" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/4tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>Chef Robby Goco outside the Pamilihang Bayan ng El Nido</figcaption></figure></div><p>“[The Crispy Pig Ears] actually came about accidentally,” he said, as we helped ourselves on the irresistibly crunchy and chewy meat. “Since we only use the face [of the pork] for the sisig, we decided to fry the ears, and it unexpectedly became an enjoyable pulutan.”</p><p>While Tanaw serves a variety of meat-based dishes — burgers, katsudon, fried chicken, roast chicken, sticky wings, pork chop, crispy pork knuckle — 60% of the restaurant’s offerings are actually seafood, which are freshly sourced from the waters of Palawan. “You can execute an excellent dish with local ingredients. It’s all about the technique,” the seasoned chef says knowingly. </p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Tanaw’s seafoods are locally sourced" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/5tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>Tanaw’s seafoods are locally sourced</figcaption></figure></div><p>For instance, barracudas are not typically sold in fillets at the local market. Therefore, what they do is buy the entire fish and dry-age it, extending its longevity while enhancing its flavor. </p><p>In curating the menu for Tanaw, Goco highlighted coastal South American cuisine, making sure to offer a culinary experience distinct from his other existing restaurants. Tanaw&#x27;s menu showcases tapas and pintxos, each dish a flavorful journey. </p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="An abundance of shellfish at the local market" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/6tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>An abundance of shellfish at the local market</figcaption></figure></div><p>We highly recommend sampling their Mejillones (marinated mussels bathed in olive oil), which we can’t get enough of. The Vanilla Beach Ceviche is a symphony of flavors featuring shrimps, clams, mussels, and leche de tigre, accompanied by crispy vegetable chips. The Barracuda Carpaccio was a delicate dish featuring dehydrated seaweeds and shaved bonito tuna flakes, so was the Boquerones, marinated anchovies infused with garlic and olive oil. </p><p>Craving sushi? Treat yourself to the Islands Aburi (showcasing dry-aged tuna, fresh crab, cucumber, multigrain rice, and pickled local chili pepper), and Reef &amp; Beef Aburi (featuring pickled mackerel, shrimp tempura, beef tenderloin, pickled carrots, and crispy potato). All these are best enjoyed with your preferred selection of alcoholic or non-alcoholic beverages. </p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Crispy Pig Ears" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/ancx/food-n-drink/2023/17/cpe.jpg"/><figcaption>Crispy Pig Ears</figcaption></figure></div><p>Given that 85% of El Nido’s visitors are foreigners, Goco thoughtfuly integrated familiar options into the menu such as burgers, pastas, and tacos. Notably, Seafood Marinara Pasta and Ragù Bolognese stand out as the most popular selections among their international guests. He thus emphasizes the meticulous preparation of the slow-cooked Ragù, simmered to perfection for over six hours.</p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Unicorn fish taco" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/8tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>Unicorn Fish Taco</figcaption></figure></div><p>Tacos take on a unique twist using locally abundant sungayan or unicorn fish. “This fish is commonly grilled. What I did is turn it into fish tacos,” he said. Instead of using wheat or corn tortillas, he uses cassava, which is likewise readily available in Palawan. “We just peeled the cassava, grated it, dried it in the oven, and put it in the food processor,” he said. The tacos are served with lettuce and three kinds of dressing, making for a filling yet guilt-free treat. </p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Mejillones" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/9tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>Mejillones</figcaption></figure></div><p>Catering to vegans, Tanaw offers a selection of salads. The Chopped Salad, a personal favorite, boasts a blend of chopped spinach greens, cucumbers, crispy wontons, fried onions, and a refreshing summer vinaigrette. Addressing concerns about the water source in El Nido, Goco guarantees that their fresh produce are washed with filtered water, not tap water.</p><p>Tanaw, meaning “to see” in Tagalog, perfectly encapsulates the essence of this strategically located restaurant along Vanilla Beach in Sitio Maremegmeg. Offering sweeping views of El Nido’s famed ocean scenery, Tanaw is not only a culinary haven but also a hub where guests converge to enjoy a refreshing swim.</p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Dry-aged barracuda" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2023/ancx/12/04/10tanaw.jpg"/><figcaption>Barracuda Carpaccio</figcaption></figure></div><p>They may have faced delays in launching Tanaw — it was initially scheduled to open during the pandemic — but Goco remains optimistic about its future. “Presently, there are just five flights per day. Once we reach that 14-flight mark, things should stabilize. Now, there’s a growing interest, and people are making their way here,” he says, with a smile.</p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img alt="Bacalao Croquettes" src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/ancx/food-n-drink/2023/17/bacalao-croquettes_.jpg"/><figcaption>Bacalao Croquettes</figcaption></figure></div><p class="embed-wrap">Tanaw Restaurant is another compelling reason for travelers to venture to El Nido, as it promises an unforgettable journey for every discerning palate.</p><div><em>Tanaw Restaurant is located at Anchor Store 2A Ground Floor, Vanilla Beach, Corong Corong, Sitio Maremegmeg, El Nido, Palawan. It’s open daily 9 a. m. to 9 p.m. Reservations are highly recommended.</em></div>

Tanaw is another compelling reason for travelers to venture to El Nido, as it promises an unforgettable journey for every discerning palate.