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Pampanga eats: Inspired by Mexico, Chef Sau opens Frida in Angeles

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Joko Magalong-De Veyra

<div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/chef.jpg?ext=.jpg"/><figcaption>Chef Sau Del Rosario poses at his new restaurant Frida in Angeles, Pampanga.<em> Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</em></figcaption></figure></div><p>MANILA -- Frida Kahlo is a name that’s synonymous to Mexico, so naming a Mexican cantina after the acclaimed artist was an easy thing to do for celebrity chef Sau Del Rosario. </p><p>Frida Taqueria y Cantina can be found on Don Meliton Avenue in Angeles, Pampanga. With the expressway just a stone’s throw away, there’s always a warm breeze especially when you sit at the cantina’s outside patio.</p><p>“This is the place that you wish you could have—by the beach, or in this case, by the road,” shared the spirited Del Rosario. </p><p>And if Kahlo was known for vibrant paintings in the colors of Mexico, this restaurant follows that same palette. It’s an explosion of color inside—bombastic and homey at the same time. The reds on the walls reach out to you, competing with an arresting mural of a weeping Kahlo in the corner. Pan the small room, and you find a Kahlo quote to inspire you as you munch away. </p><p>“It’s all repurposed, up-cycled,” Del Rosario said. </p><blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgireZLlIs4/" data-instgrm-version="8" style="background:#FFF;border:0;border-radius:3px;box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15);margin:1px;max-width:658px;padding:0;width:calc(100% - 2px)"><div style="padding:8px"><div style="background:#F8F8F8;line-height:0;margin-top:40px;padding:28.194444444444443% 0;text-align:center;width:100%"><div style="background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC);display:block;height:44px;margin:0 auto -44px;position:relative;top:-22px;width:44px"> </div></div><p style="color:#c9c8cd;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:17px;margin-bottom:0;margin-top:8px;overflow:hidden;padding:8px 0 7px;text-align:center;text-overflow:ellipsis;white-space:nowrap"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgireZLlIs4/" style="color:#c9c8cd;font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-weight:normal;line-height:17px;text-decoration:none" target="_blank">A post shared by Jeeves De Veyra (@venividiburp)</a> on <time dateTime="2018-03-20T12:03:08+00:00" style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif;font-size:14px;line-height:17px">Mar 20, 2018 at 5:03am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote><div><script async="" defer="" src="https://www.instagram.com/embed.js" type="text/javascript"></script></div><p>Chairs and tables are mismatched, and the bathroom is plastered with Mexican images taken from a book. This place has no shortage of personality. In fact, with its décor and its food, it would find a comfortable place in many hip locations in Manila (Makati&#x27;s Poblacion, for example), but the fact that it’s in Angeles lends the place another layer of charm. </p><p>This is a passion project for the chef, having fallen in love with Mexico and its cuisine after visiting the country for Gastronomica De Mexico, where Del Rosario was invited to give a talk on Philippine cuisine. This fascination continuous until today, as during our visit to the cantina, Del Rosario was set to fly back for another speaking engagement to Mexico the week after. </p><p>Staying true to Mexican flavors is what Frida is all about, using authentic Mexican ingredients at the most crucial bits that are on offer. We’re talking ingredients that are shipped in almost monthly -- corn meal for their taco shells, spices for their seasoning, and even bottles of Mexican beers or agua fresca for libations.</p><p>And if Pampanga is indeed a mecca for good eats, Frida surely builds on that culinary milieu with its brand of Mexican fare. </p><p>Here’s some things that you can say ‘ole!’ to when you visit the cantina: </p><div class="media-content"><div class="slider-for"><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats1.jpg"/></div><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats2.jpg"/></div><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats3.jpg"/></div><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats4.jpg"/></div><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats5.jpg"/></div><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats6.jpg"/></div><div><img src="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2018/news/04/24/eats7.jpg"/></div></div><div class="media-content slider-desc"><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">1. Boozy Agua Frescas and Shrimp Cocktail</h1><p>It’s generally hot and humid in Pampanga so these boozy tequila-spiked agua frescas are a hit whether you’re enjoying it in the early afternoon, or late at night. Lolita pairs watermelon with lime and cilantro, while Flora is all about acidity with hibiscus tea, lime, and lemon. Lucia highlights citrus flavors with passion fruit, orange, and lime, while Felicia gives off tropical vibes with pineapple, lime, and cilantro. Any of these pair well with Frida’s shrimp cocktail—sour and refreshing, with avocado that adds richness, and red onion that adds some bite. <cite> Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">2. Queso Fundido</h1><p>There’s something very satisfying with dipping a nacho chip (or anything really) into a skillet of melted cheese. Even better? This melted cheese party is joined by homemade chorizo, and topped with jalapenos and caramelized onions. Best for a group, or a hungry pair. <cite>Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">3. Sabina Tostadas</h1><p>Fried shells using masa made from Mexican corn make for a unique experience eating tostadas in Frida. This is nothing like your store-bought fare, a fact highlighted especially when you eat it with a light and bright ceviche (red snapper or tuna), that has cucumber for crunch, tomato for some sweet acidity, and cilantro to bring it all together. <cite>Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">4. Carnitas Taco</h1><p>Given its name, Frida has nine taco choices in the menu (including a sisig version). We decided to go with the Carnitas and were enamored by soft pieces of pork braised with spices, tasting sweet and peppery, with a healthy helping of onions, and a wicked salsa roja (cooked salsa). <cite>Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">5. Pollo ala Plancha</h1><p>If you’re hankering for a rice meal, turn to the mains section of the menu. The Pollo ala Plancha makes for a spectacular looking plate – the pressed chicken has dark golden crispy skin (thanks to Frida’s spice rub) that’s perfectly accentuated by bright orange-tomato-tinged Mexican rice underneath. Take a spoonful of rice, some juicy chicken, include a bit of crispy skin, and add your slaw or pickle of choice -- it’s enough for two, but why share? <cite>Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">6. Cumin Coriander Crusted Hanging Tender Steak</h1><p>Painting with the same colors as Frida, Del Rosario has Hanging Tender Steak atop a roasted sweet potato and red bean hash. The hash -- sweet, earthy and tinged with lime -- joins smoke-tinged steak dappled with chimichurri, with the sauce adding brightness and herbaceous goodness. <cite> Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div><div class="item-desc"><h1 class="heading">7. Key Lime Paleta</h1><p>Take the flavors of a key lime pie -- the unmistakable acidity of a key lime, the lusciousness of cream and cheese, the buttery and nutty taste of graham -- and turn that into a paleta (Mexican-style popsicles). While flavors change, we recommend you get these when they’re available. Lip-smacking good! <cite> Photo by Jeeves de Veyra</cite></p></div></div></div>

<p>Frida Taqueria y Cantina can be found on Don Meliton Avenue in Angeles, Pampanga. </p>

Frida Taqueria y Cantina can be found on Don Meliton Avenue in Angeles, Pampanga.