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Old Manila's Pinoy chef gives fine-dining staples a modern edge

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Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News

<p>MANILA -- For the first time since it opened in 1976, a Filipino chef is leading the kitchen of one of the most iconic fine dining restaurants in the metro.</p><p>Early this year, The Peninsula Manila appointed Allan Briones as chef de cuisine of its signature restaurant Old Manila, bringing more than 14 years of experience having trained under culinary superstar Marco Pierre White in London.</p><p>“Chef Allan Briones brings with him an impressive list of accomplishments and a wealth of experience that we are thrilled to have at Old Manila,” the hotel’s general manager Mark J. Choon said in a statement. “We are proud of the inspired new menu he has created at the restaurant and know that he will continue to raise the standards, assuring our guests of an incredible dining experience.”</p><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila.jpg"/><figcaption>Allan Briones poses for a photo at Old Manila. <em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em></figcaption></figure></div><p>The 37-year-old Briones, who studied at the Center for Culinary Arts before working abroad, is introducing “seasonal market cuisine” to Old Manila, which is based on his philosophy of “respecting” ingredients and using more seasonal produce sourced locally and abroad “just to make sure the freshness and quality are all there.”</p><p>“I try to blend them together to come up with dishes that actually suits the name Old Manila. That basically is the direction of my menu,” he told ABS-CBN News.</p><p>Briones’s dishes also reflect a passion for technique and feature an overall lightness in line with contemporary dining trends.</p><p>“I don’t want to have a lot of heavy items on the menu. Even the way I create my menu, I work more on balance. I don’t want them to get tired of what they eat. I want to make sure that they basically finish what they eat and start looking for more,” he said.</p><p>“I don’t want serving people heavy food so they can have more space to try more of what we offer.”</p><p>Old-timers can still enjoy Old Manila’s dry-aged selection of steaks but if you want to see what Briones can do, check out how he added a modern spin to these 15 fine-dining staples and all-time favorites.</p><div class="media-content"><div class="slider-for"><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila1.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila2.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila3.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila4.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila5.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila6.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila7.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila8.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila9.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila10.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila11.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila12.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila13.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila14.jpg"/></div><div><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2017/life/11/19/111917_oldmanila15.jpg"/></div></div><div class="media-content slider-desc"><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>1. Tuna Tataki</h3><p>The now-classic seared tuna has been given a global update by Briones. For the crust, he crushed sesame seeds mixed with dried nori and dehydrated lemon zest. He then seared the tuna while keeping the inside raw, which he served with soba noodles tossed in sesame oil. Completing the plate are charred pineapple chunks, slices of micro-cucumbers and drops of soy, ginger and coriander beurre blanc.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>2. Roasted Beetroot</h3><p>To make this rather simple salad more interesting, Briones used different kinds of beetroot — local, baby beetroot, and golden beets — then served it with drops of Guimaras mango puree, bits of goat cheese from Davao and a sprinkling of crushed pili nuts.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>3. Grass-fed Beef Scotch Eggs</h3><p>For his version of this traditional dish, Briones used an organic egg from a farm in Jomoran, Abra, which he coated with minced meat and bread crumbs and then deep-fried. It came with a sweet capsicum sauce and served with a side salad of radish, radicchio, roasted enoki mushrooms and peppers.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>4. Foie Gras Torchon</h3><p>Let’s admit it: While we love foie gras, it’s not exactly the most appetizing dish to look at. Briones showed his eye for plating with this appetizer by creating an eye-catchy pattern using the block of foie gras that’s been cured with Cognac and nitrate salt then topped with crushed pistacchios as the centerpiece. He then surrounded it with alternating polka dots of salted caramel sauce made from dates and cherry juice.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>5. Bone Marrow</h3><p>The trendy roasted bone marrow makes it to the Old Manila menu paired with the traditional beef tartare. Another fashionable ingredient, salted egg, has been turned into a foam, while grated cured egg yolks, pickled mushrooms and a grilled baguette, complete the experience.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>6. Heirloom Tomato</h3><p>This is one of the dishes that best exemplifies Briones’ respect for ingredients. For this salad, he used both heirloom tomatoes from France and cherry tomatoes, which he coated in pesto, then topped it with chia seeds, saba vinegar (from grapes), avocado flakes and the local pancit-pancitan.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>7. Jamon and English Pea Soup</h3><p>Briones’s penchant of using various types of a single ingredient is again on display in this soup, as he played with different textures of peas — puree, snowpeas, pea flowers. For the jamon, he also used bones of the ham to flavor the stock, while trimmings were dehydrated for additional taste. He finished off this soup with a foam made from Parmesan cheese.</p><p>Another soup, the Sweet Corn Veloute, follows the same principle, as he used corn kernels, popcorn and corn puree for texture, while the husk was added to the stock for added flavor.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>8. Miso-Glazed Chilean Sea Bass</h3><p>Briones considers this his signature dish, and it’s another take on a classic fine-dining staple. He explained that he cooked the miso for four to five hours with Mirin until it takes on a caramelized color. He used this to baste the fish, as well as the baby aubergine. The dish is served with baby bok choy, smoked aubergine puree, crispy quinoa and eggplant skin. (Yes, he uses all the parts of the eggplant.)</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>9. Sous Vide Lamb Loin</h3><p>Instead of the usual rack of lamb that had been a staple on fine-dining menus, Briones offers lamb lovers this dish instead. The lamb loin is sous vide with orange juice, saffron and lamb jus, and served with potato puree, roasted baby carrots and turnips, shallots and glazed with reduced jus.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>10. Vanilla Duck Breast</h3><p>You’d never guess that Briones is actually using local duck from Pateros (instead of France) for this fine-dining classic. &quot;It&#x27;s almost the same as the duck that we get from France; the difference is the way that you actually cook it. If it’s cooked medium rare, it’s not tough,&quot; he said.</p><p>The duck, which has been marinated in olive oil and vanilla beans, is paired with couscous with dried fruits like mango, pineapple and apricots.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>11. Wagyu Tomahawk MB5</h3><p>Old Manila has long been known for its steaks and other grilled items. Regulars can still order classic dishes like lobster thermidore, lamb chops and ribeye but Briones has added trendier meats and cuts like this Wagyu Tomahawk MB5, which weighs almost a kilo.</p><p>The steaks are served with your choice of sauces -- pick from traditional bordelaise and bearnaise to more current like truffle jus and foie gras butter. Sides, too, range from classic corn nibbles and and creamed spinach to trendy triple cooked duck fat fries and Wagyu beef fried rice.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>12. Lobster Ravioli and Wagyu Beef Cheeks</h3><p>This is Briones&#x27;s take on surf and turf. He paired lobster ravioli with Wagyu beef cheeks that have been braised for 24 hours. The lobster jus was reduced and made into a foam and it&#x27;s served with warm potato salad and asparagus. A light option yet indulgent and rich in flavor.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>13. Creme Catalana</h3><p>The traditional Spanish custard dessert, served with a citrus compote and cinammon-sugared churros, is a good light ending.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>14. Goat Cheese and Mango Tart</h3><p>If you want to be more adventurous, order this curious pairing, served with ice cream flavored with black truffles.</p></div><div class="item-desc"><em>Vladimir Bunoan, ABS-CBN News</em><h3>15. Frozen Key Lime &#x27;Pie&#x27;</h3><p>Briones goes all out creative with this deconstructed key lime pie, which he turned into an ice cream bar that looks suspiciously like a Magnum bar. &quot;Break into it and you have all the components of the key lime pie inside,&quot; he said.</p><p>For added flavor and texture, he served it with candied lemon, meringue and bits of Graham crackers.</p></div></div></div>

<p>For the first time since it opened in 1976, a Filipino chef is leading the kitchen of one of the most iconic fine dining restaurants in the metro.</p>

For the first time since it opened in 1976, a Filipino chef is leading the kitchen of one of the most iconic fine dining restaurants in the metro.

Old Manila's Pinoy chef gives fine-dining staples a modern edge

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Old Manila's Pinoy chef gives fine-dining staples a modern edge

Vladimir Bunoan,

ABS-CBN News

Published Nov 19, 2017 07:02 AM PHT

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The Peninsula Manila

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