Feathers fly at Chanel's Paris fashion return

Agence France-Presse

<div><ivs-player data-ivs-key="e8c22c015ca9eafa76f1e3edfa03c603" data-ivs-spid="3001339" data-ivs-vid="3070187"></ivs-player></div><script src="https://player.ivideosmart.com/ivsplayer/v4/dist/js/loader.js"></script><p>PARIS, France -- Chanel returned to the Grand Palais -- scene of the late Karl Lagerfeld&#x27;s most legendary triumphs -- for the first time in four years Tuesday without a designer but still able to ruffle feathers with its birdcage-themed Paris Fashion Week show.</p><p>The famed French house turned the refurbished Belle Epoque edifice into a giant aviary, with a white birdcage at its center to show off a collection festooned with plumes and feathers.</p><p>Only a day earlier British designer Stella McCartney had lamented the &quot;billions of birds killed for the fashion industry&quot; after the animal rights campaigner&#x27;s own bird-themed Paris show.</p><p>But there were plumes aplenty at Chanel -- a favorite of its founder Gabrielle Chanel -- as it celebrated her fascination with birds and flight.</p><p>The cage in the center of the glass and steel nave was also a  nod to Chanel&#x27;s iconic bird on a swing advert from 1992 starring French singer Vanessa Paradis and her black tail feathers.</p><p>Elvis Presley&#x27;s granddaughter Riley Keough sat on the swing to sing this time. Paradis sat in the front row along with K-pop singer Jennie Kim and Oscar winning actor Lupita Nyong&#x27;o.</p><p>With the main entrance of the Grand Palais now bearing Gabrielle Chanel&#x27;s name as a part of a  30-million-euro ($33-million) deal to stage its shows at the Paris landmark, the brand wanted to plant a flag during uncertain times.</p><div><a class="fr-green fr-strong" href="https://news.abs-cbn.com/lifestyle/2024/10/1/r-bonney-kelsey-sarah-more-filipinas-attend-paris-fashion-week-1640">READ: More Filipinas attend Paris Fashion Week</a></div><div><a class="fr-green fr-strong" href="https://news.abs-cbn.com/lifestyle/2024/10/1/blackpinks-jennie-angele-margaret-qualley-turn-heads-in-chanel-fashion-show-2024">WATCH: Blackpink&#x27;s Jennie, Angele, Margaret Qualley turn heads in Chanel fashion show</a></div><div><strong>- No rush for new designer -</strong></div><div><span class="fr-video fr-deletable fr-fvc fr-dvb fr-draggable" contenteditable="false" draggable="true"><iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BbsF2buINNk?&amp;wmode=opaque&amp;rel=0" frameBorder="0" allowfullscreen="" class="fr-draggable"></iframe></span></div><p>Without a creative director since June after Virginie Viard -- who took over from Lagerfeld after his death in 2019 -- bowed out, Chanel&#x27;s studio designed the spring summer collection, riffing on some of the label&#x27;s standards, from its trademark tweeds to lacy flapper dresses and flying jackets.</p><p>But it was the feathers that stood out, used in ruff-like collars on crocheted bombers and on 1920s-style gowns inspired by the glamor of French writer Colette&#x27;s forays into musical hall and cabaret.</p><p>Chanel chief Bruno Pavlovsky told AFP that the French company would not be rushed into finding a replacement for Viard, who was Lagerfeld&#x27;s right hand woman for decades.</p><p>&quot;You should not have a knife at our throat&quot; if you are going to make &quot;the right choices&quot;, he insisted, saying there would likely be an announcement by the end of the year.</p><p>Tom Ford, John Galliano, Simon Porte Jacquemus and French fashion editor Carine Roitfeld top the list of names mentioned to take over, though Pavlovsky would not be drawn.</p><p>With the big luxury Paris houses seeing profits fall as Chinese buyers button their purses, he said it was &quot;the time for us to bounce back. Virginie did a great job over the last five years -- indeed these last 30 years when she was at Karl&#x27;s side.</p><p>&quot;We are just at the end of a cycle and the brand must start a new one,&quot; Pavlovsky told AFP before the show.</p><p>&quot;The strength of the brand is that it can take its time because we have teams who are super solid. All that gives us strength at a time when we could have been disturbed or weakened -- but we are not,&quot; Pavlovsky added.</p><div><strong>- Pressing times for Miu Miu -</strong></div><p>Hollywood stars Hilary Swank and Willen Dafoe later walked for the Italian label Miu Miu, Prada&#x27;s avant garde little sister.</p><p>Veteran designer Miuccia Prada -- who has a doctorate in political science -- called her show &quot;Truthless Times&quot; and had her models walk through a recreation of a newspaper printers&#x27; press hall, with copies of her show notes flying overhead.</p><p>Her spring summer collection was a typically daring mash-up of swimming costumes and trunks with richly luxurious formal pieces.</p><p>Paris Fashion Week ends Tuesday with a show by French duo Coperni at Disneyland Paris.</p><div><strong>© Agence France-Presse</strong></div>

<p>The famed French house turned the refurbished Belle Epoque edifice into a giant aviary, with a white birdcage at its center to show off a collection festooned with plumes and feathers.</p>

The famed French house turned the refurbished Belle Epoque edifice into a giant aviary, with a white birdcage at its center to show off a collection festooned with plumes and feathers.

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Feathers fly at Chanel's Paris fashion return

Feathers fly at Chanel's Paris fashion return

Agence France-Presse,

Daphné Rousseau

Published Oct 02, 2024 12:52 AM PHT

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