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20240216-Lamian

Bryan Reyes

ABS-CBN News

<div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/20240216-Lamian-1.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left">The celebrated Lamian is all about Filipino cuisine made with modern twists. <em>(📷: Bryan Reyes, ABS-CBN News)</em></span></span></span></div><p>If food is a journey, Filipino cuisine went through many hills, mountains, rivers, and seas before it became what it is today.</p><p>The local fare is a kaleidoscope of flavors due to many influences from migrants, foreign traders, and invaders. Indeed, Philippine cuisine is a silent witness to lulls and upheavals.</p><p>This rich history extends to Filipino food, and Paul Tan, executive chef of Lamian at The Bellevue Resort (TBR), taps into this to make the cuisine modern.</p><div><a href="https://news.abs-cbn.com/lifestyle/2024/2/9/what-to-expect-at-the-bellevue-resort-in-panglao-737">What to expect at The Bellevue Resort in Panglao</a></div><p>“Our cuisine, our culture have been subjected to a lot of pillaging. In order for a cuisine to make its way where it’s at, you need to have a lot of external influences,” Tan said in an interview with ABS-CBN News.</p><p>Though Tan admitted that Filipino cuisine is not his forte, his take on modernizing it is commendable. For instance, his risotto sinigang is popular that “when people order it, ubos na agad,” according to resort manager Andrew Fernandes in a separate interview. </p><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/20240216-Lamian-2.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left"><span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none">A sweet and quirky deconstructed turon. <em>(📷: Bryan Reyes, ABS-CBN News)</em></span><em> </em></span></span></span></div><p>Lamian is all about Filipino food made with modern twist. Recently renovated, guests can expect new flavors at the restaurant, a spacious setup, stylish rattan furnishings, and an &quot;ever-evolving&quot; menu, according to Tan.</p><p>“We do good Filipino food, but we had to figure out what the niche would be, what would separate us from other restaurants.. For us to bridge that gap and to tap into that niche, we decided to go with something with more of a heart and more of a story, we looked into the past, the present, and what it can be, which we called beyond.&quot;</p><p>The farm-to-table restaurant in Panglao puts a premium on Boholano food and “dishes that were slightly forgotten in the past.” They also incorporate Southeast Asian ingredients in their offerings but ensure to deliver flavors familiar to patrons.</p><div><a href="https://news2.abs-cbn.com/ancx/travel/where-to-stay/02/10/24/panglao-resort-banks-on-sustainability-to-boost-tourism">Panglao luxury resort banks on sustainability to boost tourism</a></div><p>Tan said that the past is the place to start when modernizing local cuisine, and he believes that is possible while respecting traditional Filipino food processes. </p><p>“I think of the big picture and how I get to that. I’ll always have to go backwards... And having that structured backbone of the Filipino cuisine and [moving] towards that.. Lamian is all about Filipino cuisine, the past, present, and beyond. We have to look back to where we came from before we can move forward,” Tan explained.</p><p>For instance, Fernandes said they use the rare asin tibuok in some of their food and source it directly from the remaining families that produce it. Most of their ingredients are also organic.</p><div><a href="https://news.abs-cbn.com/life/multimedia/photo/08/16/23/spotlight-on-rare-salt-asin-tibook">Spotlight on rare salt Asin Tibook</a></div><p>So, what does an “ever-evolving menu” look like? Tan said it’s when they “take out the outdated and add better-perceived items.” Their menu is changing phase by phase, with the first quarter of this year focused on Asian and Southeast Asian influences.</p><p>This, as most of their diners are locals and those married into other cultures – all “looking for something new and something familiar.”</p><p>When the COVID-19 pandemic hit and the restaurant halted operations, the management decided to reconceptualize, which took about six months. It involved the TBR’s bosses going around Bohol and beyond to taste varied Filipino food. </p><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/20240216-Lamian-3.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left"><span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none">The trio behind the reconceptualized Lamian: The Bellevue Resort managing director Dustin Chan, resort manager Andrew Fernandes, and executive chef Paul Tan.<em> (📷: Handout; Bryan Reyes, ABS-CBN News)</em></span><em> </em></span></span></span></div><p>“We really went around and ate around. We went to Cebu. We had to find out... the DNA of not only Filipino food but particularly Bohol, Cebuano, Visayan food,” Fernandes said.</p><p>Fernandes admitted that the old Lamian has a “chop suey menu – a little bit of everything”. During the reconceptualization, the resort manager, chef Tan, and managing director Dustin Chan decided to focus on Filipino food.</p><div><a href="https://news.abs-cbn.com/business/2024/2/13/-revenge-travel-a-boon-for-hospitality-sector-108">&#x27;Revenge travel&#x27; opens opportunities for hospitality sector - industry player</a></div><p>“When we reopened this, we said we’re a Filipino brand, we’re a Filipino company, why not just Filipino? We divided our menu into two: we have our Filipino Forward and Forward Filipino,” Fernandes shared.</p><div><strong>Filipino Forward and Forward Filipino</strong></div><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/20240216-Lamian-4.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left"><span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none">Lamian uses the rare asin tibuok in some of their pastries. <em>(📷: Bryan Reyes, ABS-CBN News)</em></span><em> </em></span></span></span></div><p>Fusion cuisine is a thing in Metro Manila, and Lamian wants to follow suit but take their offerings further by making local classics better.</p><p>Filipino Forward is “the classics done well,” according to Fernandes, and for the balikbayan who miss the taste of home.</p><p>Meanwhile, Forward Filipino is all about making local cuisine differently. “Where we think Filipino food will go” is the guiding principle of the management in crafting this particular menu.</p><p>Fernandes explains that to the “unsophisticated or at least to the biased eye,” Filipino cuisine looks unsophisticated. Or, as he described it, “one-pot meal, lahat tinambak lang.”</p><p>Lamian wants to debunk that notion.</p><p>“In reality, they don’t know that there’s a lot of minutiae and nuances to building up the flavor. Gaano katagal mo papakuluan? When do you add something? That changes the flavor profile,” Fernandes said.</p><p>The restaurant aims to be a “one-stop shop of all good Filipino food” while making it “intelligible and familiar to the foreigner.”</p><p>“At least parang willing siyang i-try… For example, sinigang risotto. Most foreign diners know what a risotto is but they don’t know what sinigang is. But if you mix them both together, “I like risotto. I’m now willing to try Filipino food because it’s in a vehicle or form that’s more familiar to me, okay, why not?” So that’s our thought process, that’s why we have the Forward Filipino.”</p><div><span class="fr-img-caption fr-fic fr-dib" style="width:950px"><span class="fr-img-wrap"><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/20240216-Lamian-5.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/><span class="fr-inner" style="text-align:left"><span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none">Lamian offers a unique take on sinigang by fusing it with risotto. <em>(📷: Bryan Reyes, ABS-CBN News)</em></span><em> </em></span></span></span></div><p>The dining spot eventually wants to offer seasonal fare like isaw alongside deconstructed food, further introducing foreigners to unique Filipino tastes.</p><p>And so the journey of Philippine flavors continues at Lamian.<span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"> </span></p><p>Browse Lamian&#x27;s full menu <a href="https://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/2024/life/02/16/tbr-lamian-menu-2023-240115-stc.pdf">here</a>:.</p><div><ivs-player data-ivs-key="e8c22c015ca9eafa76f1e3edfa03c603" data-ivs-spid="3001339" data-ivs-vid="2962721"></ivs-player></div><script src="https://player.ivideosmart.com/ivsplayer/v4/dist/js/loader.js"></script><div><span id="isPasted" style="color:rgb(65, 65, 65);letter-spacing:normal;orphans:2;text-align:left;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;widows:2;word-spacing:0px;-webkit-text-stroke-width:0px;white-space:normal;background-color:rgb(255, 255, 255);text-decoration-thickness:initial;text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;display:inline !important;float:none"><em>A peek at the breakfast buffet of Lamian, The Bellevue Resort’s main dining spot. (📹: Bryan Reyes, ABS-CBN News)</em></span></div>

The past as an ingredient: Lamian's take on modern Filipino food

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The past as an ingredient: Lamian's take on modern Filipino food

Bryan Reyes,

ABS-CBN News

Published Feb 16, 2024 10:59 PM PHT

|

Updated Feb 22, 2024 05:41 PM PHT

Read More:

Lamian

The Bellevue Resort

Panglao

Bohol

Filipino food

tourism

travel

cuisine

pagkaing Pinoy

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