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London Fashion Week: Burberry gives the trench coat a streetwear edge

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Agence France-Presse

<div class="twitter-tweet twitter-tweet-rendered" style="display:flex;max-width:550px;width:100%;margin-top:10px;margin-bottom:10px"><iframe id="twitter-widget-0" scrolling="no" frameBorder="0" allowtransparency="true" allowfullscreen="" title="X Post" src="https://platform.twitter.com/embed/Tweet.html?dnt=false&amp;embedId=twitter-widget-0&amp;features=eyJ0ZndfdGltZWxpbmVfbGlzdCI6eyJidWNrZXQiOltdLCJ2ZXJzaW9uIjpudWxsfSwidGZ3X2ZvbGxvd2VyX2NvdW50X3N1bnNldCI6eyJidWNrZXQiOnRydWUsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfdHdlZXRfZWRpdF9iYWNrZW5kIjp7ImJ1Y2tldCI6Im9uIiwidmVyc2lvbiI6bnVsbH0sInRmd19yZWZzcmNfc2Vzc2lvbiI6eyJidWNrZXQiOiJvbiIsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfZm9zbnJfc29mdF9pbnRlcnZlbnRpb25zX2VuYWJsZWQiOnsiYnVja2V0Ijoib24iLCJ2ZXJzaW9uIjpudWxsfSwidGZ3X21peGVkX21lZGlhXzE1ODk3Ijp7ImJ1Y2tldCI6InRyZWF0bWVudCIsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfZXhwZXJpbWVudHNfY29va2llX2V4cGlyYXRpb24iOnsiYnVja2V0IjoxMjA5NjAwLCJ2ZXJzaW9uIjpudWxsfSwidGZ3X3Nob3dfYmlyZHdhdGNoX3Bpdm90c19lbmFibGVkIjp7ImJ1Y2tldCI6Im9uIiwidmVyc2lvbiI6bnVsbH0sInRmd19kdXBsaWNhdGVfc2NyaWJlc190b19zZXR0aW5ncyI6eyJidWNrZXQiOiJvbiIsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfdXNlX3Byb2ZpbGVfaW1hZ2Vfc2hhcGVfZW5hYmxlZCI6eyJidWNrZXQiOiJvbiIsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfdmlkZW9faGxzX2R5bmFtaWNfbWFuaWZlc3RzXzE1MDgyIjp7ImJ1Y2tldCI6InRydWVfYml0cmF0ZSIsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfbGVnYWN5X3RpbWVsaW5lX3N1bnNldCI6eyJidWNrZXQiOnRydWUsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9LCJ0ZndfdHdlZXRfZWRpdF9mcm9udGVuZCI6eyJidWNrZXQiOiJvbiIsInZlcnNpb24iOm51bGx9fQ%3D%3D&amp;frame=false&amp;hideCard=false&amp;hideThread=false&amp;id=1835772115045216524&amp;lang=en&amp;origin=https%3A%2F%2Fnews-workbench-web.abs-cbn.com%2F%23%2Fworkspace%2Fmonitoring%3Fitem%3Durn%3Anewsml%3Anews-workbench-api.abs-cbn.com%3A2024-09-16T23%3A37%3A34.449317%3A506beeef-42ba-48fb-9998-d8ef21a0531f%26action%3Dedit&amp;sessionId=90f6fc30cf5683f4d9fc55ae2046268395706eb5&amp;theme=light&amp;widgetsVersion=2615f7e52b7e0%3A1702314776716&amp;width=550px" style="position:static;visibility:visible;width:550px;height:801px;display:block;flex-grow:1" data-tweet-id="1835772115045216524"></iframe></div><script async="" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charSet="utf-8"></script><div><br/></div><p>LONDON - With a Spring/Summer 2025 collection reinventing the iconic trench coat with a streetwear edge, English designer Daniel Lee brought a breath of fresh air on Monday to fashion giant Burberry, hit by financial troubles.</p><p>The designer, who has been at the creative helm of Burberry for the past two years, departed from the tradition of setting the London Fashion Week show in a tent pitched in the heart of a park, opting for the concrete of the brutalist National Theatre building instead.</p><p>For the venue&#x27;s scenography, the creative director called on British artist Gary Hume, who redecorated the building&#x27;s foyer, inspired by one of his installations from the 1990s.</p><p>Lilac carpeting and large green sheets pierced with geometric patterns added colour between the grey concrete pillars.</p><p>Under the eyes of celebrities -- Vogue USA editor-in-chief Anna Wintour, actor Barry Keoghan, Blur singer Damon Albarn and recent Paris gold medallist Keely Hodgkinson -- the models entered from one of the building&#x27;s massive staircases.</p><div><br/></div><div class="twitter-tweet twitter-tweet-rendered" style="display:flex;max-width:550px;width:100%;margin-top:10px;margin-bottom:10px"><iframe id="twitter-widget-1" scrolling="no" frameBorder="0" allowtransparency="true" allowfullscreen="" title="X Post" src="https://platform.twitter.com/embed/Tweet.html?dnt=false&amp;embedId=twitter-widget-1&amp;features=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%3D%3D&amp;frame=false&amp;hideCard=false&amp;hideThread=false&amp;id=1835742662407688292&amp;lang=en&amp;origin=https%3A%2F%2Fnews-workbench-web.abs-cbn.com%2F%23%2Fworkspace%2Fmonitoring%3Fitem%3Durn%3Anewsml%3Anews-workbench-api.abs-cbn.com%3A2024-09-16T23%3A37%3A34.449317%3A506beeef-42ba-48fb-9998-d8ef21a0531f%26action%3Dedit&amp;sessionId=90f6fc30cf5683f4d9fc55ae2046268395706eb5&amp;theme=light&amp;widgetsVersion=2615f7e52b7e0%3A1702314776716&amp;width=550px" style="position:static;visibility:visible;width:550px;height:801px;display:block;flex-grow:1" data-tweet-id="1835742662407688292"></iframe></div><script async="" src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charSet="utf-8"></script><div><br/></div><p>The classics that make up the British brand&#x27;s DNA were still there: the trench coat with turned-up collar for men, tartan in shades of grey, beige or cream, and carefully structured outlines.</p><p>But even &quot;Burberry icons evolve&quot;, wrote Daniel Lee in his note of intent, as &quot;trench elements are deconstructed and realized in fabrics that feel light: silk poplin and linen&quot;.</p><p>For women, the designer remade the trench as a cropped jacket, a halter cape or a parka with shoulders covered in silk organza faux feather trims, layered over delicate dresses or skirts, blending elegance with a sportier, even military style.</p><div><strong>- Spring palette -</strong></div><p>For men, the influence of sportswear fashion is even stronger, with lightweight materials and functional cuts, giving rise to outfits of flowing pants and tartan zip-up jackets, paired with sneakers or loafers.</p><p>&quot;There&#x27;s a tension between looser, fluid fabrics versus leather and pieces inspired by traditional British uniforms,&quot; Lee explained.</p><p>The collection also gave a nod to the resurgence of y2k fashion, with low-rise trousers, cargos and capris that end below the knee.</p><p>Before the show, Daniel Lee said he admired artist Gary Hume&#x27;s &quot;extraordinary use of colour&quot;, and his palette of green, lilac and orange is reflected in the collection, which ends with glamorous gold-sequined dresses.</p><p>Since his arrival at Burberry in October 2022, Lee has been on a mission to modernise the cornerstone of British luxury, which is experiencing worsening financial difficulties.</p><p>For several months now, the British fashion house has suffered from a lack of global appetite for luxury goods and unfortunate strategic choices.</p><p>Next week, Burberry will exit London&#x27;s FTSE 100 after 15 years at the top-tier index. It has been the FTSE 100&#x27;s worst-performing company over the past year, its share price tumbling about 70 percent.</p><p>Briton Jonathan Akeroyd stepped down as CEO after a series of poor results in July after just over two years at the label, and was immediately replaced by American Joshua Schulman, former head of brands Michael Kors and Coach.</p><p>On its penultimate day Monday, London Fashion Week also featured catwalks by Labrum London, Irish designer Sinead O&#x27;Dwyer and, for the first time, Edeline Lee, a favorite of Victoria Starmer, wife of Prime Minister Keir Starmer, who was in the front row of the show for the occasion.</p><p>cla/aks/rlp</p><div><strong>© Agence France-Presse</strong></div>

<p>With a Spring/Summer 2025 collection reinventing the iconic trench coat with a streetwear edge, English designer Daniel Lee brought a breath of fresh air on Monday to fashion giant Burberry, hit by financial troubles.</p>

With a Spring/Summer 2025 collection reinventing the iconic trench coat with a streetwear edge, English designer Daniel Lee brought a breath of fresh air on Monday to fashion giant Burberry, hit by financial troubles.