Julia Christine Botin

Article (news)

Chef Maciek Kurjañski

Jeeves De Veyra

MANILA -- Polish kielbasa maker Maciek Kurjañski is on a mission to expose Filipinos to kielbasa and Polish cuisine.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/174799222586420250523100520_POLE 1.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Polish chef Maciek Kurjañski with James &amp; Daughters&#x27; Jonas Ng. Jeeves de Veyra</div>Kurjañski and his partners started making Polish charcuterie in Port Barton in Palawan borne from the frustration that they couldn’t find decent kielbasa in the area.Through the years, the quality of the company’s Polish meats gained a following that they had to uproot and move to Angeles in Pampanga, where they set up a factory to service the much larger market in Luzon. They also changed their name to Smak Kielbasy as a nod to their Polish rootsJust what makes Polish kielbasa different?The first thing Kurjañski noted was saying kielbasa sausage is wrong as kielbasa is Polish for “sausage.”He goes on to say that Polish charcuterie, which includes kielbasa, is generally very garlicky, has high coarsely ground meat content generally from 95 to 99%, avoids the use of extenders, and is dryer than most. Along with garlic, Polish spices use mustard, coriander, marjoram, with salt and pepper to season. This results in a longer shelf life and meat that can be eaten fresh off the refrigerator. (He doesn’t recommend putting these in the freezer as the charcuterie will become rock hard.)Filipinos may be more comfortable with hot cooked meats which is why Hungarian sausages, frankfurters, and Italian garlic sausages are very popular, but Kurjañski recommends -- and even encourages -- having his kielbasa cold or at room temperature.Jonas Ng, the owner-chef of James &amp; Daughters, met Kurjañski when Pampanga-based supplier MeatBros invited him to tour the Smek Kielbasy plant. He was impressed with Kurjañski’s guts to introduce a relatively unfamiliar cuisine at that scale.Ng, who also announced that James &amp; Daughters will move to another location in August, just loves his pop-ups, saying that he values the knowledge he gets from these kitchen collaborations. He’s had Brazilian, Venezuelan, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, and now he’ll have Polish.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/174799314077420250523100520_POLE 2.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Kielbasa platter. Jeeves de Veyra </div>The must-order of the pop-up is the mini kielbasa platter. There are four kinds of kielbasa on the tray — Kurjañski is particularly proud of his smoky Kabanosy, smaller in thickness but dry and chewy. The Krakowska kielbasa are much larger and are sliced very thin; the beef kielbasa shows off how coarsely ground the Kurjañski stuffs in; and white garlic is used in the pale Drwala Lumberjack Kielbasa to add a kick.Kurjañski fleshed out the pop-up menu with more than just kielbasa with recipes his grandmother used to make back in Poland. These were rustic down-to-earth dishes that Polish families actually eat.These showed off another aspect of Polish cuisine that highlighted sour and fermented notes as a lot of food is stored because of the harsh winters. &#x27;<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/174799316755120250523100520_POLE 3.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Smalec Na Granze. Jeeves de Veyra </div>The featured appetizer is Smalec Na Granze. Think chopped up bits of bacon that’s as crisp and rich as our chicharon suspended in lard with bits of onions and apples. This is spread on baguette chips or crackers for a crispy bite.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/174799326007120250523100520_POLE 4.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Kotliet Meilony. Jeeves de Veyra</div>Kotliet Meilony had pork patties with marjoram and garlic. As is, the patties were herby and juicy. To complete a bite of this, add a bit of sourness to cut through the meatiness from the vinegary cucumber salad The final version will have mashed potatoes and a beetroot salad.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/174799243180420250523100520_POLE 5.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Zurek. Jeeves de Veyra </div>The Zurek is surprisingly made with a sourdough starter similar to making sourdough bread. This is loaded with four kinds of sausage topped with a hard-boiled egg. This is a hearty filling bowl with the kielbasa pieces adding heft and that garlicky notes. Kurjañski boasted that the longer this stays in the ref, the better it gets though this will be served fresh during the pop-up.<div><img src="https://od2-image-api.abs-cbn.com/prod/editorImage/174799245996420250523100520_POLE 6.jpg" style="width:950px" class="fr-fic fr-dib"/>Hunter&#x27;s Bigos. Jeeves de Veyra </div>My favorite dish was Hunter’s Bigos or hunter’s stew. This is made with whatever ingredients are on hand. What makes this distinctly Polish is that it’s sour and fermented. It’s very healthy for people who don’t want extra carbs in their lives as I devoured this without needing any rice.It all starts with Kurjañski’s super sour cabbage coleslaw which is the foundation of the dish. In this case, mushrooms and slices of different kielbasa are added then slowly simmered for two days. The one I had was simmering for barely a day, and Ng and Kurjañski promised that the final version will be much richer and much more intense.What’s missing in this spread is the pierogi – the Polish dumplings. Ng said that this deserves its own pop-up and is setting up a pierogi night soon.  Aside from the kielbasa, Kurjañski produces higher end versions of more popular charcuterie like Italian and Hungarian sausages upon request. But in the end, he still shines the spotlight on his Polish.After this pop-up, he hopes to get FDA certifications to get Smak Kielbasy to supermarket chillers around the country. The Polish charcuterie is available at select delis around the country, B2B meat suppliers, and their <a href="https://www.smakkielbasy.ph">website</a>.<div>“A Polish Culinary Journey featuring guest chef Maciek Kurjañski” pop-up starts at 5:30 p.m, this weekend (May 24 and 25) at James &amp; Daughters, G/F Estancia Mall, Capitol Commons, Pasig City. For reservations, please call 0917-134-6625.</div>

Polish kielbasa maker Maciek Kurjañski is on a mission to expose Filipinos to kielbasa and Polish cuisine.

Polish kielbasa maker Maciek Kurjañski is on a mission to expose Filipinos to kielbasa and Polish cuisine.

Happening this weekend: Pasig pop-up to introduce Pinoys to Polish food

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Happening this weekend: Pasig pop-up to introduce Pinoys to Polish food

Jeeves De Veyra

Published May 23, 2025 05:28 PM PHT

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Updated May 24, 2025 06:39 PM PHT

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Polish food

kielbasa

James & Daughters

Estancia Mall

restaurant

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