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Are all tikoys created equal? We taste-tested five popular brands to find out

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Mia Kimberly Villareal

<p>Chinese New Year isn’t Chinese New Year without the obligatory gift of <em>tikoy</em> in its familiar red box. Also called <em>niangao</em> (<em>nyen-gaoww</em>), this seasonal dessert was initially used as a present in ceremonies before it eventually developed into a food staple during the Spring Festival. <em>Niangao</em> sounds like “year high” which signifies a higher income, a higher position, and generally the promise of a better year.</p><p>The Filipino word <em>tikoy</em> is adapted from the Hokkien/Fujian word <em>ti</em> (sweet) and <em>ke</em> (cake). It is made of glutinous rice, lard, water, and sugar, which is then pounded into a paste and usually formed into a round shape. It is typically cooked by being dipped in beaten eggs—but cut the <em>tikoy</em> first into bite-sized strips, of course— before it is fried in a bit of cooking oil. This creates a slightly crispy coating to the soft, chewy, sticky <em>tikoy</em> meat.</p><p>There are numerous bakeshops and restaurants offering their own versions of this delightfully sweet and sticky Chinese delicacy. But is one <em>tikoy</em> brand really different? To be honest, all those years of accepting <em>tikoy</em> gifts and cooking and eating them, we never really gave much thought to how different one <em>tikoy</em> brand was from the other. Is it time we figure out the nuances that make one <em>tikoy</em> superior, or at least distinct? </p><p>We ordered a cake each from five well-known <em>tikoy</em> sellers in Manila to smell and taste the difference. </p><div> </div><h3>Choi Garden</h3><p>This popular upscale Cantonese restaurant offers <em>tikoy</em> in the classic brown sugar flavor, but what you should try is its date-flavored <em>tikoy</em>. Quite a new taste for Filipinos, this <em>tikoy</em> has a natural flavor, a refined texture, and smells quite aromatic. Choi Garden’s special <em>tikoy</em> is not sugary, even though dates are one of the sweetest fruits around. It’s the kind of date we wouldn’t mind calling back as soon as it’s done. </p><div><em>12 Annapolis Street corner Purdue Street, Greenhills, San Juan, (02) 8727-7489</em></div><h3> </h3><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/ancx/food-n-drink/2021/01/2tikoy.jpg"/><figcaption>Photo from Ho-Land&#x27;s Facebook account</figcaption></figure></div><h3>Ho-Land Chinese Delicacies  </h3><p>This family-owned store is well known for its <em>hopia</em>, mooncakes, and special <em>tikoy</em>. It offers unusual flavors like mango and pandan that are moderately sweet smelling. Not too tough nor soft, these flavored <em>tikoy </em>have absolute chewiness to them.</p><div><em>551 Yuchengco Street, Binondo, Manila, (02) 8242-9709</em></div><div> </div><h3>Salazar Bakery</h3><p>The special white <em>tikoy</em> at this 71-year-old Binondo institution—known for its breads and pastries at affordable prices—imparts a familiar taste with a tinge of sweetness. It has a fantastic texture, and is easy to slice, cook, and chew. Moreover, it goes well with coffee. Salazar Bakery offers other <em>tikoy</em> flavors as well, such as stuffed in peanuts and bean paste, or smothered in sesame seeds.</p><div><em>Ongpin Street, Sta Cruz, Manila, (02) 8733-1397</em></div><div> </div><h3>Sampaguita</h3><p>One of the earliest manufacturers of <em>tikoy</em> in the country, Sampaguita has long been a crowd favorite among food lovers. Known for its well-balanced flavor and moderate chew, this <em>tikoy</em> isn’t overpowered by an excess in sweetness. Sampaguita has been popular for their custom-made gigantic <em>tikoy</em> that weighs up to 4 kilos. But we were told this isn’t available at the moment.</p><div><em>44-C Shaw Boulevard, Mandaluyong, (02) 8531-6961</em></div><div class="embed-wrap"><figure data-feedback="fb:likes,fb:comments"><img src="http://sa.kapamilya.com/absnews/abscbnnews/media/ancx/food-n-drink/2021/01/3tikoy.jpg"/><figcaption>Photo from Sweet Taste&#x27;s Facebook account</figcaption></figure></div><h3>Sweet Taste Bakeshop</h3><p>This Quezon City bakeshop started selling its homemade <em>tikoy</em> back in 1991. What’s great about this <em>tikoy</em> is it stays soft even after it’s cooked, with just the right amount of chewiness. Unlike other more commercial <em>tikoy</em>, it’s not at all rubbery, nor does it feel too heavy. But it is a tad on the sweet side. Sweet Taste’s special <em>tikoy</em> is available in various sizes and in classic white and brown variants.</p><div><em>47-A Nicanor Roxas Street, Quezon City, (02) 8731-7147</em></div><div> </div><div><em>[This story first appeared in a slightly different form in Metro.Style. All tikoys were checked for their current availability.]</em></div><div> </div>